Over 300 climbs
The Hyugami crag is located in Kurogi town in Yame city, in South of Fukuoka, close to Kumamoto and Saga and it is the most popular sport climbing crag among Kyusyu climbers.
Many climbers live in Fukuoka, the central city of Kyusyu Island. Kyusyu is one of the regions of Japan(Hokkaido, Tohoku, Hokuriku, Toukai, Kinki,Shikoku, Chuugoku, Kyusyu). Kyusyu island itself has a size of GDP about same as Australia. So the capital of Kyusyu, Fukuoka is the 5th biggest city of Japan.
The Hyugami crag now has over 300 climbs, including 15 multi-pitches.
K1 Hyutte
English version of Hyugami crag is written here.
http://k2hut.yuki-mura.net/ehyuugami.html
https://gfd03341.wixsite.com/mysite-1/blank
K1 Hyutte is the most famous website among Kyusyu climbers but it is not often updated so it does not show up high in google search these days.
It might be a handy crag for climbers in south Asia, like Taiwan, Thai, Singapore, Korea, and China.
Imagining a world tour like trekking in Himalaya, crack in China, white slab in Korea, face in Hyugami Japan, sea cliff in Long Dong, Limestone overhang in Laos, thrills me. If you do that in winter, you can even ice climb and dry tool in Japan and Korea.
I will add some English information and latest topo when I can. Don't trust my translation, even though I used to work as a paid professional translator, I don't get paid for doing this so I am not going into the level of my professional work. I don't double check. So please go to the original site, for double check.
If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to contact through this site.
IMPORTANT NOTICE !!
This is Cut anchor : unreliable 40 year old bolts
This is a good bolt reinstalled:
Please know the difference!
Mountain Project
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/114653448/fukuoka-prefecture
Someone's blog
https://thisnotionoflife1.blogspot.com/2006/01/kyushu-climbing-or-how-to-exploit-your.html
Detailed Map
https://maps.gsi.go.jp/#15/33.173809/130.783124/&base=std&ls=std&disp=1&vs=c1j0h0k0l0u0t0z0r0s0m0f1
Rock type
It is andesite. The rock height is about 100 to 200 m. Most short routes are under 25 m. Slab, over hang and face climbing can be done. We have multi-pitches too. There are some bouders too.
Parking
Free of charge. Most crags are 0 min to 15min walk from parking lot, or road side.
Best Season to come
Avoid Japan's rainy season in late June to July. In general, Summer is the worst season to travel Japan. The best season is May and October like in any other places in Japan, but climbers in Kyusu, climbs Hyugami all year around. Just choose the area wisely.
Weather Forecast
https://tenki.jp/forecast/9/43/8240/40210/3hours.html
Rope lengths
Mostly 50m is ok but 60m covers all.
Bolt situation
This crag is bolted by volunteers so sometimes we see some funny anchors too. There are people watching on the funny ones but anybody can bolt here so better not to climb the one that is not popular and tested.
Grades
Local climbers are updating constantly. So it is still controversial. Beware of that.
Maybe you can start from 1 or 2 grades lower than your usual climb.
Developers
Akiyoshi Noge No.1 contributor(already gone). There are so many others and the climb has a character by a developer. Some tends to runout, some doesn't. So knowing who's creation helps to increase your own safety.
Historical routes
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| Kehogi Iwa |
Got to climb! climbs
"Elekiban 5.11c/d" in Aino area
"Setting on 5.12c" in Summer time area
"Superhero 5.10a" 1st pitch 40 m in Bacher Area
My mentor climber says… "Elekiban 5.11c/d" is more precisely at least 5.12. Beware of that.
For 5.10 climbers, he says "Hatuyume" and "Ai ha katsu" are recommendable.
For 5.11 climbers, "Kachoufugetu 5.11a " is very popular.
For 5.12 climbers, "Shimba".
For 5.13 class, "Shinobino mono" in Okuheki.
Grade distribution
This is only what I can trace from public web site, so there must be more.
1) Under 5.9 --------20 climbs
5.7 4
5.8 5
5.9 11
5.10a 10
5.10b 16
5.10c 18
5.10c 15
5.11a 32
5.11b 12
5.11c 15
5.11d 10
4) 5.12a to 5.12d ---24 climbs
5.12a 9
5.12b 7
5.12c 5
5.12c 3
5) Above 5.13 -------1 climbs
15 multi-pitches.
1，Ai(Love) no area 1,2,3
３，Okuheki(A back wall) area
４，Summertime area
５，Competition area
６，Bacher area
７，Balcony2 area
８，Balcony area
９，Training area
10、Tunnel area
11、Riverside area
12、The lower stream of a dam area
13、Bikkuri Face
14、Juroujin area
15、Tettoh(Steel tower) area
16、Sunset area 1, 2, 3
17、Michibata(Roadside) area 1,2,3,4
