Climber Friendly camp site in Yame

Greenpal Hyutami in Yame

To climb in Hyugami, local climbers use Green pal Hyugami, camp site.

See here for detail.  It is not written in English but you can see it in google translation. 

https://allnevery.blogspot.com/2019/08/blog-post_29.html

A dormtent is rented at 2800 yen. 

https://greenpal.jp/%e6%96%99%e9%87%91/%e3%83%ac%e3%83%b3%e3%82%bf%e3%83%ab%e7%94%a8%e5%93%81/

You can rent a cottage, 

https://greenpal.jp/%e6%96%bd%e8%a8%ad%e6%a1%88%e5%86%85/

A cottage for 6 people is only 17,050 yen up to 8 people, 

                   10 people is 22,550 yen up to 12 people. 

To use this place perhaps you do like to come by car, or a bus. To get to crag, you's like to use a bus or by foot.  

Okuhyugami Camp site 

Is opening in Feb. or Mar. in 2020. Once it is open, you can access it by car and stay there for a few days. It is only camp site within 5 min to crag.  Local climbers just bring tent under the tunnel there or sleep in the ban of theirs like climbing bums. 

Free site for Natural Spring Water

It is about 15 min drive away from Okuhyugami Camp site or 10 min from Green Pal Hyugami.

Location 
https://www.google.com/maps/place/%E5%A5%A5%E5%85%AB%E5%A5%B3%E6%97%A5%E5%90%91%E7%A5%9E%E9%83%B7+%E6%B8%85%E6%B0%B4%E5%B1%8B%E6%B9%A7%E6%B0%B4/@33.184628,130.7558954,15z/data=!4m13!1m7!3m6!1s0x3541087ed3cc40a7:0x19ce494548bd2f08!2z44CSODM0LTEyMjEg56aP5bKh55yM5YWr5aWz5biC6buS5pyo55S65LuK!3b1!8m2!3d33.2238423!4d130.6702118!3m4!1s0x0:0x9ebe9ce94524a66d!8m2!3d33.1802435!4d130.7504851

Water supply could be a problem when you are camping so I list it here. If you are OK with river water, you can just go down the river. Japanese climbers are usually bringing water from home.

This spring water charge by membership system but there is one free tap for visitors to share.

It's membership system

Free Tap

Paid Tap

Compromised Anchor

Not the best but compromised.

Sometimes we see these but usually it is OK.

Better to double check so ask the other people.

Usually unpopular routes are better leave that way.

Tunnel Area

1. Damu ko face 5.11a 
2. Tabi no yado 5.10a
3. Kehogi ridge 5.10b 
4. Koyuki Mau 5.8
5. ---non applicable route 
6. Syaoron 5.11 b  Undone 
7. Diagonal  5.11a 
8. Petit face  5.8
9. Kojyo no nosuri 5.10d  Loose rock 
10. Cobra 5.12 a Easy if you go left on crux.Go right to follow the original.
11. Project   Undone
12. Kehogi tunnel route 5.10a
13. Kehogi tunnel route right 5.11a 
14. Ushi ko 5.12b
15. Hook on  5.12a?   Undone
16. White Christmas 5.11+   Undone
17. Chimney route 3P multi pitch  5.10c     Classic(means scary?)

Don't climb 6, 11,15,16 since it seems undone.

Central Area

1. Hitoridachi 5.8 B8
2. Second street 5.9 B9
3. Soreha ikagana monoka 5.10a B9
4. Comfort 5.10a B9
5. Gyakusou Face 5.10d B11 
6. Under Upper 5.10b B10
7. Project 
8. Kimuzukasii Syuryouten 5.10c B12 
9. Pitching edge 5.10c B8
10. Project 
11. Power stece 5.10c B12 
12. Kurogoke 5.11a B11 

The running bolts are kind of funny so not strongly recommended.

Wide boulder in Hyugami

This is a weirdest thing in Hyugami. A wide crack boulder. And it is so hard. 2 Dan in Japanese grading.

so 7c or v9?  see grading conversion here. https://yamahack.com/1889

日本の方へ

トポは原典を参照するよう書いています。

ここではベータを提供していますが、トポそのものは改定もしようがありませんので、触れません。

クライミングは自己責任ですから、クライマー本人が原典を確認するくらいのことは、当然の行為でしょう。

また意見を送信される際、先入観で判断せず、ちゃんと全部読んでください。

今どきはGoogle翻訳が素晴らしい翻訳をしてくれます。

すべて、すでに日本語で提供されている情報の再編集です。外国人の友人に何度も聞かれると、同じことを何度も答えるのが、めんどくさいので、一か所にまとめています。

さらにちゃんと返信アドレスとお名前を明記くださるようお願いします。

Okuheki Area

Latest Topo 2019. 06.

See here for original Topo. The grade is outdated.
http://k2hut.yuki-mura.net/okuheki.html

１，Samurai 　5.12a　B7（新原孝喜）
２，Ashigaru 　5.10b　B4（小柳美砂子）
３，Pump Dance 　5.11c　B8（民長宏規）
４，Side Winder 　5.11d　B7（新原孝喜）
５，Apolo 11 　5.11c　B7（寺島郁彦）
６，Tukusukuhousi 5.10a　B4（力丸恵）
７，Kakattekinasai 5.11a　B4（山崎武）
８，Sinobino mono　5.13a　B9（新原孝喜）★★★
１０，Layback road 　5.8　B3（新原孝喜）
１１，Hyugami Layback　5.12b/c　B6（新原孝喜)

12, Ikita Akashi 5.11b

Hanatate Iwa Kante Jyou Slab

Hanatate Iwa Kante Jyou Slab

I went to this one in Winter time (Christmas holiday in 2018) and was so cold it was snowing. 

You have to cross the river to get and climb up the hill for about 15min. There are a subtle climbers trail to Hanatate Iwa.

The topo is here.

It does says not even a decimal.
http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/hyugamihanatateiwa.html

The climb was easy 4 pitch slab. It was an easy 5.7 or less I felt.

It had a lot of large pockets, it looked as if spoon cuts in snow ridges as in summer snow, so it was a lot of foot stance. 

So this one is actually the 1st multi pitch for everyone in this crag.

It probably takes only a half day or so . So you may want to combine with other climbs too. .

Michibata Area 2

For topo go to here
http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/michibata.html


Mtotodos  5.10d B9 （長友敬一）
Kinoka Mizunoka  5.10b （長友）
Akiyoshikun no okage desu I 5.10c （長友）
Beginners Luck 5.10a（古賀）
Ichiro　5.10a B4本（山崎武）
Taro  5.10c B4本（新原孝喜）
Jiro  5.11c B4本（新原）
Saburo 5.10b B3本（設定：江平尚志　初登：徳永紀子）
Siro 5.9 B4本（江平）
Sinsia  5.11a B7本（山崎）
Hanako  5.11a B7本（江平）
Torako  5.11b B9本（設定：江平　初登：徳永）
Munen  5.11a B9本（新原）
Oyaji damashii 5.12c/d B10本（新原）
Gurikono omake  5.11d B10本（新原）
Project（新原）

Sunset Area 4

Goto this site for Topo
http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/ebenzaiteniwasunset.html

(1) Mountain hydrangea 5.10c B5 10m (Takeshi Yamasaki)
(2) Mantelpiece 5.10b B5 10m (Takeshi Yamasaki)
(3) Straw hat 5.11a B5 11m (Yukie Yamasaki)
(4) Dendrobium moniliforme in full bloom 5.10b B6 11m (Yukie Yamasaki)
(5) Eagle attack 5.11a B10 23m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(6) Wired 5.11b B3 8m (bouldering with rope)(Keiichi Nagatomo)
(7) First step 5.10b B3 8m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(8) Tagayashite Ten ni Itaru (It cultivates and reaches heavens) 5.11c B13 25m (Takeshi Yamasaki)
(9) Originator Fire rocket 5.8 B3 7m(Takumi Yamasaki)
(10) Yaepin 5.12b B10 24m (Keiichi Nagatomo)

Sunset Area 3

Goto this site for Topo
http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/ebenzaiteniwasunset.html

(1) The song of climbing 5.9 B8 16m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(2) Before and After a Rainy Season 5.10a B8 18m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(3) Ai no Ukai-line (The Detour-line of love) 5.10c B9 22m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(4) Iwahiba (Tamariscina) Hanging Left 5.10d B10 22m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(5) Iwahiba (Tamariscina) Hanging Direct 5.11a B10 22m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(6) The wind of a topaz 5.11a B9 22m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(7) Woods rustle 5.10c B12 25m (Keiichi Nagatomo)

Goto Sunset area 4

Michibata Area 1 Slab

Latest grade 2019.06

Slab

1. Irassyai mase  5.7（土村）
2. Kimi no tameni  5.9（土村）
3. Renaissance　  5.10b（土村）
4. Welcome baby 5.11a（廣瀬政廣） 
5. Hidamari  5.9（土村）
6. Hitomi 5.10a（土村）
7. Dan dan 5.9（土村）
8. Birei ha hiroba de 5.7（長友）
9. Konome okoshi  5.10b（山崎）Ground up
10. Syun min  5.10c（成田）
11. Harugasumi 5.10c/d（山崎武）
12. Haruno hikari up 5.11d （土村、西郷　初登：西郷）
13. Haruno Hikari down 5.7
14. Haru no arashi  5.11b（長友）
15.  Rakuen e no michi 5.8

Original site is here. http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/michibata.html

Goto Area 2

Sunset area 2

Goto this site for Topo

http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/ebenzaiteniwasunset.html

The website topo is outdated so you can just go to the area and there will be latest topo in the crag.

(1) When You Wish upon a Star 5.11a/b B12 25m / An ending point is to the terrace on 13m. 5.10a B5 up to there. (Susumu Saigo)
(2) Aoba Wakaba (Green leaves and verdure) 5.10a B5 10m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(3) Shincha (First tea of the season) 5.11b B9 22m (Takeshi Yamasaki)
(4) Ocha wo Ippuku (A rest is taken with tea) 5.10b B5 15m (Yukie Yamasaki)
(5) Teien Sansaku (Garden walk) 5.10c B10 23m (Keiichi Nagatomo)

Aoba wakaba  5.10a

Goto Sunset area 3 

Sunset Area

For precise detail goto the original site:
http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/ebenzaiteniwasunset.html

(1) Kanki no Uta (The song of the dry season) 5.10d B6 12m (Keiichi nagatomo)
(2) Hanging which had chockstone once 5.10c B4 10m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(3) Yaezou 5.11c B9 18m (Keiichi nagatomo)
(4) Sanshi Suimei (Beautiful scenery) 5.11a B10 18m (Takeshi Yamasaki)
(5) Don't steal a Dendrobium moniliforme 5.11c B8 18m (Takeshi Yamasaki)
(6) Monomi Yusan (Pleasure trip) 5.10d B8 16m (Takeshi Yamasaki)
(7) Up to a terrace 5.11a B7 15m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(8) A scenic terrace 5.11c B13 24m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(9) End-of-the-rainy-season declaration 5.10c B4 10m (Susumu Saigo)
(10) Pretty woman 5.11a B4 (Shinji Kitahara)
(11) Sunflower 5.10a B4 8m (Ryuji Tsuchimura)
(12) El Nino 5.11a B6 15m (Ryuji Tsuchimura)
(13) Yoshiaki kun no Okage desu III (It is Mr.Yoshiaki's favor III) 5.11c B14 25m (Keiichi Nagatomo)
(14) Nichiyou yori no Shisya (The messenger from Sunday) 5.12a B13 25m (Takeshi Yamasaki)
(15) Yame Cha no Cha-Cha-Cha 5.10a B7 14m (Keiichi Nagatomo)

Goto Sunset area 2

Michibata Area 2 Family wall

1. Ichiro  5.10a 
2. Taro 5.10d　　3rd clip comes after the crux.  If you fall, you will swing big to right and hit the rock.
3. Jiro  5.11c
4. Saburo 5.10b
5. Siro 5.10a
6. Sinsia 5.11a  Crux in the end.
7. Hanako 5.11a 
8. Torako 5.11b 
9. Munen 5.11 normal
10. Ojisan Power 5.12a 
11. Oyaji damashi 5.13a 
12. Guriko no omake 5.12a 
13. Project 5.13?

Do not park here.

Sinsia 11a 

Orijinal site. http://k1hut.yuki-mura.net/michibata.html

Ai no area No1

1, Tanuki ha harukaze ni notte  5.10d B4 (野下善秋)
２，Tanukino he jikara　5.11b/c B4（新原孝喜）
３，Tanukino momoko no tameguso 5.10b B4（野下善秋）
４， Bisyamon ten　5.10d B8（石井一彦）
５，Hatsu yume 　5.10a B6（新原美枝子)
６，Tanukino ana　5.12a/b B9（新原孝喜）
７，Ai ha katsu　5.10b B5（岩崎雅紀）very popular

８，SHINBA　5.12b/c B9（新原孝喜）
９，Wakarukana　5.11c/d B4（新原孝喜）
１０，Gomenne musasa bi　5.11a B8（新原孝喜）
１１，Muchu Hokou　5.9 B7（岡本美咲）
１２，Honemei choko ha anatani 　5.10b/c B7（久木田さゆみ）
１３，Tanukino sekurabe 　5.11a B5（岩崎雅紀）
１４, All or Nothing　5.12b B5（野下善秋）
１５，Ski tengoku　5.11d （山崎武）
１６，Tanukino kobuta　5.11a B5（長友敬一）


I see many climbers here so must be popular place. Many gym climber who are new to the outdoor climbing says the 1st pin is kind of too high.  So for a short person, pre-clipping is recommended. Don't take risks when you are traveling.

Muchu hokou 5.9 

This is me on Muchu Hokou 5.9
the very first climb of mine in Hyugami.

I was told this climb needs 5.10b move, so everyone wonder why it says 5.9?

This one's crux is high in above, so even though it is 5.10b move, it relatively safe to fall...

so it is a nice start for you to adjust the sense of grade from this climb.

I think this one is fine with me as a short person of 152 cm, so runout is relatively OK.

I am a 6b climber in Laos but never felt scared.  In Japan, I feel a bit more scared when climbing, I don't know why exactly. I kind of assume I must go on like this till I reach to the most popular grades in this crag.

My record is here.



Goto Aino area No2

THE NORTH FACE ROCK TRIP 2015 - Mt.Kasagi

https://www.climbing-net.com/news/%E3%82%AF%E3%83%A9%E3%82%A4%E3%83%9F%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0%E3%82%92%E9%80%9A%E3%81%97%E3%81%A6%E5%9C%B0%E5%9F%9F%E7%A4%BE%E4%BC%9A%E3%81%AB%E8%B2%A2%E7%8C%AE%E3%80%81%E8%8C%A8%E5%9F%8E%E7%9C%8C%E5%A4%A7/

Kinkasan